The LipoFuelGauge is ordered separately and soldered to the board. This board still has 2 resistors connected to the ADC pin, if someone wants to use that option, but it's only for playing, for example if you use this board as a smart wireless thermostat for central heating like Nest, Netatmo and others, then this device will be a cheaper but reliable alternative. Today, all smartphones, cameras, smart watches and other battery-powered devices have an integrated LipoFuelGauge system. You can also connect a solar panel.2.)LipoFuelGauge- In order to be able to accurately measure the state of the battery, you cannot do it through resistors and ADC Pins, because the voltage of lithium-ion batteries does not drop linearly, while this chip has a special algorithm that calculates the state of the battery. In this way, the device can receive from 3.3V-6V and always give the micro-controller 3.3v and power other components such as OLED display, Sensor without any problems. The main difference between this board and others you can find on AliExpress is in 2 things:1.) LDO voltage regulator - most boards such as Wemos, NodeMCU and others have an AMS117 voltage regulator that has an extremely high drop-out voltage of 1.3V, which makes them unusable for battery power, except for programming, gaming, learning, if you just want to see that what you made works, this board has a HT7333 LDO voltage regulator which has an extremely low drop-out voltage somewhere around 150mV, you can also check the specification of the regulator on the internet. This device has an integrated OLED display and a place for any I2C sensor.
Andonstar adsm201 free#
You have 6 free I/O pins, you have free I2C pins, and you can attach as many sensors, relays, LEDs and other components as you want, and program it as you wish.
Andonstar adsm201 full#
I plan to maybe do a full data-capable USB 3.0/ USB3.1 Hub later.Ĭustom designed ESP Based PCB Board for Battery-Powered IoT Applications with ESP8266 Chip, LDO, Battery Charging & Lithium-Battery, integration with Home Assistant, and other Home Automation systemsThis device is basically a development board based on ESP8266 chip and battery. CNC cutting the enclosure should also not be too difficult as well, once I get around to designing that in CAD/CAMThe SchematicI have chosen to keep it simple on this revision, and only supply power via the ports. The biggest challenge was to get the port spacing correct so that it will be easy to use all of them at the same time. The component count is quite low, with only USB3 Type Female connectors(4), a single MP1584 Buck converter module, 4x current limiting resistors for the LED indicators, as well as male header pins for the switches and LED indicators. I wanted a single unit that can accept up to 4 devices, control each port individually, as well as be relatively small and compact for travel use.The PCBThe PCB is a double layer, with wide power tracks on opposite sides of the board. They are underpowered, have only one port, and have annoying lights that are quite bright at night. I decided to do my own, at this time limited to supplying power only, but with a few added features to make it my own.FeaturesIndividual switching of portsIndividual power LED indicator on each port, that can be left disconnected for total dark operation ( I don’t like charging lights in the bedroom )Switchmode Power Supply unit, up to 2A outputWide input supply options, not limited to 5vWide power tracks to ensure decent current transfer, and reduce heat generation on the PCBWhy did I choose to build my own?We use USB ports on almost all our electronics devices, and most of the charging units that comes with these are quite badly designed. While it is possible to get a commercial multi-port USB-Charger ( I have quite a few myself), they are usually limited in charging current or very cheaply made. USB Power Supply ModuleUSB Ports are quite handy to power all our day-to-day electronic devices, but most charging devices are limited to a single port.